31 Years Since You Left Us

Stories of a life that still speaks

Every year when 17 November comes closer, my heart and mind drift back to a man who is no longer in this world. He moved on to the next world 31 years ago on this day. He was a brilliant man with ideas far ahead of his time. His research and thoughts helped lay the foundation that changed northeast India, especially Assam and Meghalaya.

A moment of him, captured in quiet pencil lines

My dad, Professor S. K. Acharya, had a clear vision of linking the Brahmaputra with the Ganges. He wrote about it more than fifty years ago. People may have thought it was too radical then, yet it has turned real in today’s world. And now look at what has happened. The world’s longest river cruise is running. A fifty-one day journey across three thousand kilometres. Tourists from around the world are coming, and it has boosted the tourism sector of the northeast. I often feel he would have smiled seeing this.

I remember the day, 17 November 1994, with absolute clarity. Early that morning my late brother-in-law, Monujesh Borooah, called from Calcutta to tell me about my dad’s passing. I was in Shillong, living alone and working in journalism. Barely a week earlier I had spoken to my dad over the phone. His voice had sounded a little weak. A couple of days later I made another STD call to discuss something for a story I was writing. He did not answer. My mother too did not pick up. I assumed they may have gone to the National Library and that my mother had gone with him. Later that evening I tried again. I also tried calling my siblings’ home in Calcutta. There was no response. This worried me, and by the night of the 16th I decided to travel to Calcutta the next day. But the news came before that. Monujesh’s phone call on the morning of the 17th felt like a shock from nowhere.

Those were the days without mobile phones, Internet or ATMs. Only landlines. All India Radio’s morning regional news bulletin carried the news of his passing. I did not have the coordinates of my eldest sibling as I was not sure where he was posted then. Through a friend I managed to send the message to his office under the Ministry of Defence.

It was a bright but cold morning in Shillong. The telephone started ringing with calls from friends and well-wishers. I had to reach Calcutta quickly but did not know how to get a confirmed ticket. Air travel was still considered a luxury or used only in emergencies. Rail travel was the usual way.

Shillong UNI bureau chief, S. Bhattacharya, called Sheba Travels and also Guwahati airport to keep a ticket reserved for me on the 3:10 pm Airbus-330 Guwahati–Calcutta flight IC 230. I rushed to Police Bazar (Khandailad) and was lucky to find an ambassador taxi returning to Guwahati. A newly married couple was in the back seat after their honeymoon. I asked if I could sit in front as I needed to catch a flight to attend my father’s last rites. They agreed without hesitation. We did not even stop at Nongpoh, which was the routine mid-point halt between Shillong and Guwahati. The driver was careful and fast, and soon I reached Paltan Bazar.

But from Paltan Bazar to the airport there were hardly any taxis left since most had already gone for airport drops. It was around 2:10 pm and I felt the panic rising. I somehow reached the airport. When I reached the Indian Airlines ticketing counter it was 3:15 pm. I told the lady at the counter I had come from Shillong and a priority ticket was kept aside. She recognised it immediately and said they were waiting for me and several announcements had been made, but I was late. She said she would try to speak to the pilot as the doors were already closed.

From the glass panel of the lounge I could see the Airbus 330 with its doors shut. The strobe lights were on. The ladder truck had pulled away from the rear door. Even the front door was closed. Then the ladder truck paused, reversed and reconnected to the front door again. The counter lady handed me a boarding pass and told me to run. I climbed up the ladder alone. The air hostess guided me to my seat, the first window seat on the right side of the door. One of the air hostess seats was right in front of me, face to face.

The ticket and boarding pass of Flight IC 230 I used on that difficult journey to Calcutta on 17 November  1994

This was the original Sheba Travels envelope in which my ticket was issued

At Calcutta airport, Monujesh was waiting. He drove me straight to the hospital and then to the electric crematorium for the final rites of my dad. I remain grateful to everyone who helped me reach Calcutta that day.

The days that followed were very sad. I missed him and cried privately for months. A few days before he was admitted to the hospital, he had written a letter by hand to a senior Member of Parliament. It was still on his table. His research papers, typewriter were all kept in place in his room, almost as if he was still around. I saw the thick file on his Brahmaputra–Ganges project. Even the huge folded blueprint map was inside it. And then one day that file simply disappeared from the house. I often think of how the authorities picked up his ideas and used them without even acknowledging him.

He was far more than just a thinker. He was a teacher. He was the founder Principal of Shillong Commerce College, earlier known as Commerce College, Shillong. His ideas helped shape policies like Look East and Act East. He believed deeply in education. He even turned down a well-paid offer from a university in South Africa so that he could build the commerce college from scratch. 

I once wrote about how his work went largely unacknowledged by authorities and media, that reflection is here: Salil Acharya: The Forgotten Trailblazer

During the B. P. Chaliha government in Assam in the 1950s and the B. B. Lyngdoh government in Meghalaya in the 1970s, he would be invited for personal consultations on economic matters. It was an honour, and both Chief Ministers saw his originality in those areas.
For a glimpse into the campus I grew up observing – Shillong Commerce College – here's an older post: Shillong Commerce College: A Chronicle of Vision and Triumph

He also helped set up the Centre for Ethno Social Studies in Calcutta, which is no longer functioning now. His research covered subjects like mutual economic cooperation between Bangladesh and eastern India. He always believed this region could grow hand in hand.

He also had a lighter side. Once he went for dinner wearing my mother’s petticoat without realising it. Another time he took the wrong suitcase for a trip. He was absent-minded at times, but we loved that part of him. It made him who he was.

For more of his light-hearted moments, here's a post I wrote earlier: Celebrating Prof. S.K. Acharya: A Brilliant Mind

He was a poet, an artist and a wonderful dad. I can still picture him sitting at his desk writing his poems or sketching ideas for his next project. He was always working on something. And he was always there for us.

A peaceful Shillong morning from my lens

For those who wish to listen, here is the AIR broadcast from the morning of 17 November 1994, the day the news of his passing was carried

I feel proud of all that he did, and I miss him. He left us, but his influence remains. We remember his big ideas, his gentle nature and his unique humour. He would have been happy to watch his ideas taking shape today, and to see how they are making a difference.

When I look back at his life, I am struck by how much he achieved. He dared to dream and then work towards it. There is something to learn from that. I write this not only to remember him, but to share a part of him with others. If you have ever lost someone who inspired you, I would love to hear your memories.

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Aerial Odyssey: Guwahati to Delhi

 Capturing the Glittering Cities & Breathtaking View from Above

Starting my journey from Guwahati to Delhi, I was instantly captivated by the unfolding experiences. In the hot and humid weather of Guwahati, boarding the aircraft felt like a refreshing escape, as I was one of the first to enjoy the cool relief of the airplane's air conditioning. The AC vents were emitting visible ice vapours, hinting at the soothing journey ahead. After tucking away my bag in the overhead cabin luggage compartment, I settled into my seat, enjoying the rare luxury of empty seats beside me as passengers gradually boarded.

Boarding

Upon arriving at the airport, I received news of a 45-minute flight delay. With time to spare, I decided to label my check-in luggage as 'Fragile: Handle With Care' to protect its contents. Despite not having the necessary supplies, I was dertimined to mark my bag. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts, a kind young lady from the Assam Police came to my rescue. She not only provided me with a white sticker and a sketch pen but also restored my faith in helpfulness and compassion. Her gesture left me overwhelmed with gratitude.

As the aircraft taxied towards the runway, I began documenting the sights around me. Another plane trailed behind, its red, blue and white lights flashing in the dusk. With a gentle drag and thrust, our aircraft ascended into the sky, the intricate movement of its wings plates captivating my attention.

Glittering City

While the video may be slightly out of focus, the vibrant lights at Guwahati Airport, also known as Lokopriya Gopinath Bordoloi International (LGBI) Airport, create a spectacular 'bokeh' effect, appealing to artistic photographers and videographers.

Climbing to a very high altitude, the aircraft executed a sharp 90-degree turn to the left, revealing the glittering lights of Guwahati below. This breathtaking sight filled me with awe, and I did my best to capture it on my mobile phone, mindful not to miss a single detail. The aircraft's movement as it orbited the glittered city below, resembling a drone camera capturing every detail, was a sight to behold. I imagined how much more spectacular the view would have been from a seat ahead of the wings, allowing me to capture the scene with even greater clarity.

Blueish Hue

Engaging with the fellow passengers around me, I found myself in a humourous situation. As I aimed my phone at the window to capture the stunning view, other passengers, perhaps intrigued by my actions, began to follow suit. It was as if my endeavour had sparked a sudden interest in capturing the beauty outside, creating a light-hearted moment of shared curiosity. However, as quickly as it appeared, the cityscape vanished as the aircraft made another sharp turn, this time to the right, and continued its journey into the stratosphere.

Later, we discussed the beauty of aerial views, local cuisine, and travel destinations. As we chatted, my fellow passengers shared captivating stories and visuals from their travels. One passenger, a middle-aged lady, delighted us with tales of her visit to Tawang and Kaziranga, showing stunning clips of these picturesque destinations. She also proudly displayed her finds from a state government cooperative store in Guwahati, including exquiste Assam silk, intricate cane and bamboo decor, 

and unique local delicacies like tiny green chili pickles which she had stored inside her check-in baggage. Her stories and souvenirs painted a vivid picture of the rich culture and beauty of Assam.

 

As we approached New Delhi, I captured another cityscape before landing at Indira Gandhi International (IGI) Airport. Although the video may not be professional-grade due to the scratches on the windowpanes and lowlight conditions, it captures the essence of the journey--a mix of excitement, 

Cityscape En Route

wonder, and the joy of exploration. The experience serves as a reminder of the beauty that surrounds us, even at 30,000 feet above the ground. 

If you've ever had a similar experience flying from Guwahati to Delhi or soared above the Indian landscape, you know the magic of seeing familiar places from a bird's eye view. Share your own airborne adventures or dreams of flight in the comments below -I'd love to hear them!

Finally, immerse into a mesmerising aerial journey with me as we orbit over the sparkling cityscape of Guwahati, resembling a scene from a dream. Witnesss the dance of city lights below, painting a surreal picture against the backdrop of the night sky. Discover the beauty of Guwahati from a whole new perspective in the video below.

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My Article in The Assam Tribune

Upgrading Music System

One of my articles has been featured in The Assam Tribune, a heritage newspaper of Northeast India published from Guwahati.

Came to know about this just a while ago as readers started E-mailing their feedback.

Following are the links to the E-paper and article which can be copy pasted in the address bar to view the same:

http://www.assamtribune.com/scripts/epaper.asp?id=Horizon/Page3

http://www.assamtribune.com/scripts/showpage.asp?id=Horizon,3,87,198,963,846

This article had been originally written for my blog with additional information and photographs.

AN ORIENTAL TRIP BY TRAIN

Tea Garden to Tea Tourism: Travel Diary

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway

Chai, garam chai... rented the air woke me up from deep slumber. I was comfortably tucked inside my sleeping bag on a chilly winter morning. My friend, Susan too was fast asleep in the opposite berth and so were the other co-passengers.

Without disturbing anybody, I quietly peeped through the curtains and discovered that our train which was running four hours late had reached Siliguri station. Here the train was scheduled to halt for half-an-hour before proceeding to its destination at Guwahati - roughly around nine hours away. A few platforms away stood the cute little toy train of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railways (DHR). Listed as a world heritage by the United Nations one can board this train for Darjeeling which passes through the cris-cross valleys and mountains.

Tea workers

Slowly I put on my jacket, sneakers and got down at the railway platform. I waved to a vendor, got two cups of tea and carefully headed to our compartment. Susan was awake by now and was too excited seeing me approaching with the steaming cups of tea in each hand. It was a misty morning, fresh as the due drops and a strange kind of feeling in the air.

As the train chugged off the station we were glued to the window enjoying the picturesque serenity. Susan got into action with her digital camera trying to frame the best shots from the running train. Far away, the majestic Kanchenjunga mountain range's snow-capped peaks glittered like a cake of gold with the first rays of the sun.

Inside our compartment a group of hawkers barged in selling curious Chinese products. The region's close proximity to China sees a good chunk of foreign goods smuggled via the Himalayan land-locked country - Nepal. Stacked inside their large shoulder bags and displaying items by hanging it from each fingers was indeed a cool way of passing time.

A hawker selling Chinese items inside the train

From electronics such as swanky caller ID land-line phones with large colour LCD, cordless phones, imitation of world famous Rado wrist watches, remote  controlled toys, Casio type synthesiser, cameras, iPod type MP3 and video players, car decors, rechargeable flashlights, CDs, folding umbrellas to track suits, jackets, sneakers, quilts, blankets, lingerie, cosmetics and various kinds of balms can be bought at an unbelievable bargain price. In the entire railway may of India, this route is considered to be a special attraction for tourists or first time traveler who usually falls prey buying these cheap foreign goods.

Our train which had been racing at full throttle had suddenly slowed down to a  moderate speed. It was passing amidst the ocean of tea gardens, thick evergreen forests, tunnels and bridges over the Teesta-river. We could see local men and women working, plucking leaves and buds, in huge cane baskets. At a distance some of the the British style luxurious bungalows too could be viewed. The slopes of the mountains, which looked like a huge green carpet with exotic flowers added to the beauty. It was a breath-taking scene that gradually took me down through my memory lane.

A Tea Planter's Bungalow

One of our very close family-friend, Robin-uncle was a tea planter. He had a vast knowledge in this field and gained the reputation in the tea industry of reviving sick tea gardens into milch cows! During his career he had worked in the Dooars, Assam and a short stint in the Nilgiri Hills tea gardens.

I used to visit him along with my parents during my long winter vacation. One of my significant visits was just after my graduation. I was pretty matured and a plethora of thoughts revolving the tea industry got deep rooted in  my mind.

Robin-uncle was at that time posted in one of the tea estates in Dooars - a place where tackling the militant labour force had become a Herculean task for his predecessors. But for him, being a unique person who had the natural ability of people management was a cake-walk to solve the most difficult situation. He had a charismatic quality of which the tea workers would swear by his name since he strongly believed that truly respecting others is the bedrock of motivations.

As things got settled in his new garden Robin-uncle's vision drifted towards the potential of tapping international tourists into the garden. Already Assam tea for its liquor and Darjeeling tea for its aroma had been creating ripples in the international market. But on the other hand, the growing threat from non-traditional countries entering into the tea manufacturing was silently sending a shiver into the spines of the Indian tea Companies. Robin-uncle along with a few like-minded colleagues started thinking in the same wave length as they believed attracting international tourists would create further awareness and give a boost to the tea industry at large.

'Scotland of the East' - Shillong

With a word of mouth his vision spread to the neighbouring tea estates until it reached the head office in Calcutta where it was overwhelmingly endorsed for his positive and futuristic view. He was given the liberty to convert one of the abandoned British-built bungalows into a luxury lodge which would cater to a selective band of people who would not mind spending lavishly while sipping Champagne of teas (often referred to Darjeeling tea) or Cognac of teas (if it was of Assam variety) amidst the sylvan surroundings.

Kamakhya Temple

With the passing of years, the concept of tea tourism is growing credence among both home and international    tourists. For tourists,particularly from the United Kingdom has a special significance. It was the British who started tea plantation in India and stayed here for long until the time of India attained independence. Such connections therefore, causes a natural urge to come to India and spend sometime in the tea gardens to recall  their memories.

Today the state governments and estate owners cashing in on the tourism potential, one can now find various tea tourism packages offered by tour operators. The packages provide an extensive tour of the tea gardens making you witness the whole process how tea is plucked, processed and finally available for consumption.

Night view of Guwahati's busy Assam Trunk Road

Suddenly I see Susan with her thirty-two teeth laughing to glory and yelling at me to pack up and get ready. This time she offers me a Cognac (Assam tea). Our train was crossing the mighty Brahmaputra-river and within few minutes would be reaching Guwahati - the gateway to the north eastern states. It was dusk, the weather was foggy and residences atop the Kamakhya and Nilachal hills were shining like stars while beneath fast moving vehicle's headlights could be seen in the busy Assam Trunk Road. We had a couple of night's stay at Guwahati and then headed for Shillong - the Scotland of the East and India's nerve centre of international rock concert before finally returning to New Delhi.        

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